Home Safe

Monday May 27

We were in the ferry queue at Lochmaddy at 6.30 a.m. in plenty of time for the 6.45 check-in. We parked ourselves in the usual covered area under ther top deck at the rear of the ship - and bought a hot drink as soon as the nearby cafeteria opened. Many of our fellow travellers went to the cafe at the front which serves cooked breakfast.

Sue found a Fox moth hiding behind the waste bin on the ferry, We'd seen a moth flying about but that was all. The sea held many more Puffins than on the outward journey, we enjoyed the Gannets as always and the wake following Fulmar. 

A long two days drive for Pam followed, especially in the heavy rain on Skye.  As always, with a single exception, Glen Coe was rain enshrouded, dark and forbidding. Didn't find any kilted, weapon waving, going Commando, Scotsmen though.

The weather improved on Sunday as we drove south, enabling us to start a Norfolk birds seen in May list. The first Swifts were the highlight.

Roll on next year.

I will now return to posting on my usual Blog, on which I record days out birding and moth-ing  from home. 

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Island Deliveries

Friday May 24

Yesterday, we had no newspaper. Someone's on strike, Bayhead Stores said. To-day was back to 10.30 a.m normal - except for Saturdays when 5.30 p.m. is normal and Sundays when none are delivered. They come to Benbecula by plane during the week - they were the ones on strike yesterday - and to Lochmaddy by boat on Saturday. Saturday's boat doesn't get in until after 4 p.m. No plane nor boat on Sundays. One gets used to it.......

The last day is always difficult. The need not to drive too far nor too long because of to-morrow's journey. Sorting the car packing and the house to-night as we have to leave soon after 6 a.m. in the morning to drive to Lochmaddy for the 6.45 latest check-in. And the evening meal which was a Co-op microwave special.

We started with a last drive to Aird an Runair. our first bird on entering the reserve road was a female Hen Harrier. I couldn't get a photo as an approching car flashed for Pam to continue !! 

I wanted a photo of a Corn Bunting for my year folder. We'd heard them several times in the dunes but not had a photo opportunity. One duly obliged, although choosing to 'sing' from a lump of dune behind a tussock of grass.

 The bay looked lovely, even under a leaden sky. The white shell sand was devoid of seaweed and therefore the birds that feed on the insects the rotting weed attracts. 

Committee Road set us off early with a Golden Eagle hovering over the ridge, shades of last night. Our intention was to stop over the brow, within sight of Sollen and to use our Emperor Moth lure again. In the passing place we found Sue and Ian parked so they joined us in the fun.  As soon as Pam got out with the lure, the first male arrived, soon to be joined by another in a frantic fluttering frenzy around the areas where the lure had touched. How frustrating for them. 

This time's visit to Baleshare took us across the causeway all the way to the extensive beach, where two Motorhomes were already parked on the shingle.

Baleshare (Scottish Gaelic: Baile Sear) is a flat tidal island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.
Baleshare lies to the south-west of North Uist. Its economics and community were boosted by the building of a causeway in 1962. The 350 m (380 yd) causeway was built by William Tawse Ltd. The island is extremely flat by Hebridean standards, rising to only 12 metres (39 feet) above sea level and known for its long sandy beach. It has a population of 49 living in two settlements: Samhla and Teananachar.
The name means 'east farm' or 'east town'. The 'west town' may have been on land that was said to exist to the west of Baleshare, washed away in the sixteenth century, over which it was possible to walk to the Monach Islands at low tide The Monachs are some 15 kilometres (9.3 miles) to the west. Another story suggests there was once a land bridge to Kirkibost, 100 metres (330 feet) to the north.
Two prehistoric settlements have been uncovered, which contain the remains of a circular stone house and pieces of pottery, bone and metal. In common with other sites in the area, they are threatened by coastal erosion.

 Using my telescope, I scanned the extensive bay for seabirds finding two superb Great Northern Divers in full summer plumage, a few Cormorants and Shags, one Gannet and little else. Occasional glimmers of the sun made patches of water appear to dance with iridescent, sparkling, vertical jumps. 

I became aware that an unkown voice was breaking into my reverie. An older, beanie hatted lady, was peering up at me from the beach below.  She was asking for the identity of a bird she'd seen at the water's edge. On this occasion, the description was good enough for me to give her a confident answer. Turnstone. With a nod and no word of thanks she walked away...... to a motorhome.

A large flock of Scottish Greylags took noisy honking flight. These seem to be truly wild, slim and wary versions of our farmyard waddlers.

Lapwing chicks are beginning to appear. The most wayward of young, they run at birth and their parents are constantly trying to keep track of them. Stopping to try and find one, we heard a near Corncrake. With a little patience, this bird actually came into view well enough to encourage camera use, even though it was through a wire fence. A fast passing van made it lower its head and leg it back into the Iris bed.

We completed the Paibles round trip, finding a female Hen Harrier hunting again. Probably the same one as we saw this morning. We also found two more summering Whooper Swans, this ones discoloured neck a tribute to the peaty water in which it dips to feed on the grasses.

Back to chores. This is the only place where we are expected to strip the beds before we leave. I'll do that in the morning of course.

Ian and Sue kindly came round after 6 to help carry luggage to the car and to lift it into the boot. Much appreciated. What good friends they are.

Only one moth in the trap this morning. None of us could identify it with 100% certainty so I sent a photo to Richard. Glaucous Shears was the very quick response. Not our first, but there must be a lot of variation in this species.

More Exploring

Thursday May 23

An even later start, I made up for the previous night's three hours sleep. Not a promising day weather wise. Grey overcast, a gusting wind with a few rays of sunshine and drizzle at intervals. We really have been very lucky so far - and I feel sorry for the crofters who are desperate for some rain.

We've never visited Lochboisedale, once the islands' main harbour and the destination for the Oban ferry. Pam suggested that we make that our primary aim. It lies at the south east corner of South Uist. 

 We'll not bother going again. It's neither scenic nor interesting. Many of the buildings are in need of a coat of paint, the area is flat and generally uncared for.

Having dismissed that....... I read the cottage wildlife guide and was attracted by the estuary of Uist's only river. The Howmore. It's marked on the map above's west coast.

Passing an ancient chapel site, Tobhamor, chapels have been there since  12C, we drove a tractor track down to the estuary - where we found two motorhomes !! 

The track took us over the river via a small bridge, where we turned round. Not a lot of water until the sea comes in again. Dunlin were feeding on the shores and mossy rocks, little other wildlife. It's said that it's good for rare gulls. Another day.

Loch Eynort beckoned. No room to park at the end but, we have a favourite place on a nearby grassy mound overlooking the inlet, where we ate lunch. Red-breasted Mergansers cruised the creeks, a polyglot collection of Harbour Seals draped the rocky islets, Ravens kronked by and a Shag spent more time under water than above. Lovely.

Our final call was Committee Road which has been lacking raptors for the last few days. 

I don't know whether it's the season for it, but peat cutting has been occurring regularly since we came. There are many different methods of stacking the peat to dry. On the ground, in piles and in decorative rows. Family tradition?

Add caption

Halfway back, a large speck appeared, hovering, above the ridge. We watched it for some time, whilst discussing its identity. I'd called it as a Goldie just from the shape of the wings and its general jizz but, wavered when a second hoverer appeared, they had a tussle and separated. My photos were inconclusive until it dropped onto prey and I managed a photo which, when hugely enlarged, showed the golden head and ruff of an adult Golden Eagle.

Home for a cuppa before leaving to have a drink with Sue and Ian before we all went for a  final meal at the Westford Inn. A very pleasant evening.
The icing on the day. As we drove home, a Short-eared Owl hunted the verges on both sides of the road in front of us before rising with prey in its talons and flying away.

One more day before we leave these lovely islands.

 

Wanderings

Wednesday May 22

After a WhatsApp exchange with Ian, we decided that the Skuas were not going to fly past Balranald. We headed south. Shortly before the junction with Committee Road, Pam called a male Hen Harrier flying north on the west side of the road. No handy passing place and following cars, we couldn't stop. That happens frequently.

Committee Road there and back produced a Spiralling White-tailed Eagle. Known as The Plank to me, it has the longest wingspan of all the world's eagles and is the fourth largest. Its long, broad wings held straight out from the body make it easier to identify, even at distance. 

No Phalarope at Loch Mhor nor at Loch Fada to-day. No room to park either, we went on to Stinky Bay. Parking alone on the verge overlooking the bay, with the receding tide exposing several tide-lines of seaweed for small waders to fossick, we settled to photoraph. Pam moved to the back seat on my side, we stuck our cameras out of the window and...... a car pulled up behind us, as closely as possible. Five middle aged people got out, slammed doors, sat on the low sea wall, changed boots, donned outdoor wear and then walked the narrow gap between us and the edge, climbed down onto the beach and walked away. I know all about selfish photographers, that public performance took the biscuit. They ignored us completely. The birds had gone.
A few Eider remained on the fast receding surf edge.

A final check of Loch Mhor before driving to South Uist and the Range area. No red flag flying, the exercise is over. We sat ourselves beachside again and tried to photograph the dozens of small waders scurrying constantly in the search for food and the best positions. Dunlin, Sanderling, Turnstone and Ringed Plover, a few Bar-tailed Godwits at the ebbing sea's edge. 

Dunlin in summer plumage (black belly)

Ringed Plover

Sanderling in summer plumage

Sanderling in winter plumage

Turnstone in summer plumage

Overcast to-day but, by early afternoon, there was occasional sun.

A lone Arctic Skua gave us a brief view as it flew out to sea. Where was it perched?

Petersport is signposted to the east of the road north. We'd never been, so we went. We'll probably not bother again. Not very scenic, it ends in a small fishing jetty strewn with nets, crab pots - the usual fishing detritus. 
Kallin harbour is a favourite. Another look at the pile of Scallop shells where I practised taking flying gulls

 before turning round in front of the small cafe/shop. This is the menu board.

It was Pam's turn at the shell pile on the way back. Not a bird in sight.

Not late, yet the light was fading fast, we even had a few spots of rain. Committee was casting its spell. No birds at all this time, apart from Greenfinch, Chaffinch and Goldfinch on the end house feeders. Home fpr a glass of wine and the inevitable photograph sorting,

When Pam went to put the moth trap out for the night, she found a moth we hadn't previously seen in the bottom well. Where did that come from? My photographs are not good and Pam mistakenly released the moth. The colour is gingery as shown in one pic, the pattern is better shown in the duller pic. Pam thinks that it's a Clouded Bordered Beauty.

Hebridean Bliss

Tuesday May 21

If blue sky with enough multi layer clouds to add dimension to the scene, all shades of blue sea, gleaming white sand beaches, rocky shores and machair flower meadows are bliss. This was it. For a birder on the Outer Hebrides, a north westerly wind and an inshore passage of Skuas, especially Long-tailed would be the absolute Nirvana.

We have a favourite high point stopping place before leaving North Uist from which the islands of Pabay (left) and Boreray can be seen. To-day the view was shades of blue.

 We have loved the island of Berneray since our first visit in the rain, three years ago. To-day's conditions saw it at its best. Connected to North Uist by a 900m long causeway, opened by Prince Charles in 1999, it remains part of the parish of Harris. 

The Sound of Harris Ferry is moored on the right

The island has one road which follows the eastern coast, a spur of which goes north west to Borgh. The latter is where we started. The Griffins had visited this area last week and had seen Little Terns. We drove our way on a winding lane through extensive machair, small groups of Dunlin and Ringed Plovers scurrying away. 

Dunlin

Guess who we found at an early parking place? Sue and Ian. Having exchanged news, we drove on to a high point looking across to an uninhabited part of the island. A small cemetery kept us company. Plus the inevitable Motorhomes.

On our return journey, we saw a Twite sitting on the fence. Obligingly, it stayed whilst photographs were taken.

Re-joining the coast road, a short drive to Baile, the road end where we park on the clifftop machair looking across to Harris and Lewis. 

Taken from the car

We watched Little Terns fishing far below. The tide was out and they are tiny birds. I have a photo for my year folder but not one suitable for this !!

Gannets passed by, the ubiquitous Whimbrel made their presence known with their whinnying call. All very pleasant and relaxing.  

Having stocked up at Sollas Co-op, we decided to return via Balranald and the coast road. We'd used Committee Road this morning. Seeing two cars parked at the second road junction and hearing three Corncrakes calling, we joined them. Not the best of positions to see well. Very quickly after stopping, Pam located a distant bird. Here come the excuses for poor photography. The engine was still running, the bird was skulking behind a sturdy post which kept messing the focus and.... I was in the passenger seat trying to see past Pam. This is the least poor shot I managed. 

Despite waiting for about forty minutes, I never got a better view and the birds kept calling. Frustrating species.

A last call at Ard an Runair before home. Not much on the machair apart from the sight of even more flowers appearing. The newest ones are tiny yellow pansies. I must correct the incorrect identifying of Cranesbill a couple of days ago in South Uist. It should have been Storksbill. We did some more book searching this afternoon.

The Rock Doves here are the real thing, not the scrap seeking mongrels we get in Norfolk.

The Balranald beach is one of the loveliest, not possible to include the whole bay in one camera shot.

As we got out of the car at home, a Corncrake called from the adjoining meadow. We'd only heard it twice before. 

WAW
 The cetacean disturbance I scoped yesterday at Ardvule was three Basking Sharks, as read on the Hebridean Wildlife web page. An ambition fulfilled at last. A real bogey animal.

New Destination

Monday May 20

We always try to include a new place when we make repeat visits to holiday areas. Ardvule Point is often mentioned as a sea watching spot on the west coast of South Uist. Finding it on the map is not easy as the OS maps are frequently both double sided, necessitating paper wrestling of Olympic standards, and place names are in Gaelic only. Pam found a cottage map which was clear but both old and in Gaelic and we set off. I'd worked out via Mr Google that the point was a right turn off before Loch Einort. To better debate a righthand lane marked with names we didn't recognise, Pam pulled in. The car behind pulled in too. Silly fools says Pam.  Until the passenger door opened and a puzzled, map wielding Sue appeared at my window.  She was having problems too.

We turned down the lane anyway, arriving at the sea edge, enjoying a white sand, rocks and gulls view from the dunes before driving south.

Another right turn to an unknown place marked Roman Catholic Chapel brought us to a halt as a woman jogger appeared. Not happy to be accosted as she was doing a timed run! She told us that it was a dead end, the chapel was at the end and we'd have to walk from there. After another map perusal, we decided to drive there anyway as we couldn't see where else to go.

Yes. The road did end at the chapel's large parking area. But. An unmade track went on - and on, sandy, pot-holed, a Twite drinking in a puddle, reedbed and machair, loch and dunes. We arrived dune top and saw this view.

It was indeed Ardvule, the most western point of the British Isles. The usual seabirds in small quantities, much too nice for anything to seek shelter.

I did see an area of rough water where dark backs broke the surface which one could easily believe was an optical illusion. I was looking through my scope and am convinced that the shapes seen were cetaceans. Nearby rocks held loafing Common Seals but these were not seals. It will have to remain a mystery.

After a leisurely lunch - Sue and Ian had aready departed for Loch Einort - Pam and I made our way back, stopping to photograph the machair in bloom. Not much variety in May but a mass of daisies, Cranesbill, small pansies, Colt's Foot and a buttercup family species.

Machair

Cranesbill

Flag Iris, the first bloom we've seen this year

Pam at work

Loch Sgiaport and an RSPB reserve on the west coast to the north of Ardvule was the next stop. Another new destination. Driving through heather clad hills on an undulating track we could not resist stopping to admire the stocky, incredibly thick and long maned and tailed Eriskay ponies. Like big, even hairier, Shetlands.

 Parking at the end of the track, from which there was a terrific view of the rocky west coast cliffs and a salmon farm, I did to-day's crossword whilst Pam, Sue and Ian went for a walk. We eventually dragged ourselves away and drove home.

Road edges here often have hidden ditches. Whist preparing supper, Pam looked out of the kitchen window to see a van on its side a hundred yards down the road. The female driver was already out and running into our grass cutter's house. The road was blocked for about 20 minutes only. Two tractors turned up, a length of rope was dragged out of the house and the van disappeared. A very commendable island co-operative effort with no apparent injuries. 

It was such a beautiful evening that we decided to drive Committee Road. It's still light enough at nine o'clock. A male Hen Harrier ghosted away from its heather perch before I could photograph it, disappearing over the ridge. A lone Short-eared Owl did the same thing. Red Deer were more obliging but never took their eyes off us.

We saw evidence that the van seen earlier had turned onto what looked like grass which wasn't, it was a watery ditch.

Moths and Rain

Sunday May 19

Much of the morning was taken up with opening the moth trap, assisted by Ian and Sue. Several of the moths are an identification problem to us southerners, the Pugs always are. A friend says that she is Puglexic. I'll join that club. Dark Brocade and Sweet Gale Moth were new for us. 

After some lunch, Pam and I drove to Langass Woods where we sat in the rain seeing nothing. It's an RSPB reserve. On to Lochmaddy, deserted on a Sunday, where we drove around checking the harbour and surrounding lochs. We saw one Black Guillemot, a pair of Red-breasted Mergansers, Shag, Eider and several Arctic Terns.

Taking the Berneray route home, we came across two Ravens, a Cuckoo which I photographed (badly), and a fly by Merlin. 

Still plenty of cars at Balranald. We met Sue and Ian who had been at the point - Ard an Runair - seeing a few distant Skuas. We didn't, just two Great Northern Divers, a few Gannets and Shags and the ubiquitous tideline scurry of Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover. 

Back home for a quick supper before Committee Road and a glass of wine and nibbles with the Griffins.

An enjoyable if rather unproductive day. We need the slow rest occasionally.