We always try to include a new place when we make repeat visits to holiday areas. Ardvule Point is often mentioned as a sea watching spot on the west coast of South Uist. Finding it on the map is not easy as the OS maps are frequently both double sided, necessitating paper wrestling of Olympic standards, and place names are in Gaelic only. Pam found a cottage map which was clear but both old and in Gaelic and we set off. I'd worked out via Mr Google that the point was a right turn off before Loch Einort. To better debate a righthand lane marked with names we didn't recognise, Pam pulled in. The car behind pulled in too. Silly fools says Pam. Until the passenger door opened and a puzzled, map wielding Sue appeared at my window. She was having problems too.
We turned down the lane anyway, arriving at the sea edge, enjoying a white sand, rocks and gulls view from the dunes before driving south.
Another right turn to an unknown place marked Roman Catholic Chapel brought us to a halt as a woman jogger appeared. Not happy to be accosted as she was doing a timed run! She told us that it was a dead end, the chapel was at the end and we'd have to walk from there. After another map perusal, we decided to drive there anyway as we couldn't see where else to go.
Yes. The road did end at the chapel's large parking area. But. An unmade track went on - and on, sandy, pot-holed, a Twite drinking in a puddle, reedbed and machair, loch and dunes. We arrived dune top and saw this view.
It was indeed Ardvule, the most western point of the British Isles. The usual seabirds in small quantities, much too nice for anything to seek shelter.
I did see an area of rough water where dark backs broke the surface which one could easily believe was an optical illusion. I was looking through my scope and am convinced that the shapes seen were cetaceans. Nearby rocks held loafing Common Seals but these were not seals. It will have to remain a mystery.
After a leisurely lunch - Sue and Ian had aready departed for Loch Einort - Pam and I made our way back, stopping to photograph the machair in bloom. Not much variety in May but a mass of daisies, Cranesbill, small pansies, Colt's Foot and a buttercup family species.
Machair |
Cranesbill |
Loch Sgiaport and an RSPB reserve on the west coast to the north of Ardvule was the next stop. Another new destination. Driving through heather clad hills on an undulating track we could not resist stopping to admire the stocky, incredibly thick and long maned and tailed Eriskay ponies. Like big, even hairier, Shetlands.
Parking at the end of the track, from which there was a terrific view of the rocky west coast cliffs and a salmon farm, I did to-day's crossword whilst Pam, Sue and Ian went for a walk. We eventually dragged ourselves away and drove home.
Road edges here often have hidden ditches. Whist preparing supper, Pam looked out of the kitchen window to see a van on its side a hundred yards down the road. The female driver was already out and running into our grass cutter's house. The road was blocked for about 20 minutes only. Two tractors turned up, a length of rope was dragged out of the house and the van disappeared. A very commendable island co-operative effort with no apparent injuries.
It was such a beautiful evening that we decided to drive Committee Road. It's still light enough at nine o'clock. A male Hen Harrier ghosted away from its heather perch before I could photograph it, disappearing over the ridge. A lone Short-eared Owl did the same thing. Red Deer were more obliging but never took their eyes off us.
We saw evidence that the van seen earlier had turned onto what looked like grass which wasn't, it was a watery ditch.
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