Thursday, 16 May 2019

All the Bs

Thursday May 16

The SatNav had estimated one hour's drive to Eriskay harbour. I'd suspected that it hadn't taken into account single track roads during early morning commuting time. It took an hour and a half. We'd left plenty of time, no problem. The others,driven by Ian were in good time too. 
The crossing to Barra took about forty minutes. Steep stairs meant that I stayed in the car doing yesterday's word games. I didn't seem to have missed much - or the sightings were underplayed.  
Someone on board had recommended that Sue drive the island's one and only circular route road in a clockwise direction. so we did.



The Eriskay ferry docks in the north-east corner. At the first signposted junction, both directions say Castlebay, the main settlement. Having visited I can't even call it a village let alone a town. 
Hearing a Corncrake, we stopped, immediately seeing one fly from nearby, across the road and into a field. Another male called from a different direction. The road hugged the coast with its tallish cliffs, rocky inlets and birdless sea.
The next stop was in a roadside parking area from which Castlebay's Kisimul Castle could be seen below. 
After the obligatory photo, the plan was to meet and have a coffee in Castlebay.


We drove back to check a bird. We passed the others who were now in the viewing area and immediately saw a White-tailed Eagle drifting away over a distant ridge. We had trouble all day being unable to stop to look at birds. Either  there wasn't a convenient passing place or oncoming cars flashed us to proceed. Very frustrating.
 We drove the harbour area in Castlebay - to fill up with petrol - without noticing a single cafe. Back on the circular road, we saw an Information Centre which had a cup and saucer as part of its sign. Funny place ........ . It sold souvenirs, postcards, local food and books. Pam was directed to a small two table area up three steps where she made our coffee and a worker produced milk in a jug from the frig. and sugar from a top shelf. It was good coffee and excellent flapjack. The Griffins and Harcups had gone to find a loo but we met again before continuing.
We soon reached the 1991 completed causeway to the island of Vatersay. A small rocky mound of an island with some lovely sandy beaches and an excellent Community Centre with cafe and loos. 


Our companions had lunched at a picnic table overlooking a bay where Eiders, Red-breasted Merganser, fishing Shags and a lone Great Northern Diver could be seen.
Time was flying by. We returned to Barra and continued a very enjoyable scenic route north along the rocky west coast. We later heard that the others had seen an Iceland Gull in one of the bays. Good sighting.
Coming across a rubbish lorry on these roads is not good news. This one's co-worker was at the side of the road mending someone's bike. Did they hit it? Or was he just a good samaritan? The bike was upturned twice, pedals turned by hand, chain checked, brakes and their cables checked. Meanwhile.......... we watched. The four cars waiting beyond must have wondered what was going on.
At last, the older cyclist re-mounted, mouthed his gratitude for our patience and the lorry drove on.
We'd driven past patches of well wooded areas to-day, seeing more small birds than on the Uists. This included, House Martins, Black-caps, Wrens and Robins. We saw three Cuckoos in flight, heard more and found Corncrakes calling at regular intervals.
Patches of Primroses. Birds Foot Trefoil and cultivated clumps of Kniphophia lit up the moorlands browns and greys.


I wanted to see Compton Mackenzie's house - author of Whisky Galore, amongst other books -  near the beach aircraft runway at Ardmore. Known as Mr Islands he lived on Barra from 1928 until the late forties.
The house looks uncared for now, a large, sprawling, white painted, single storey higgledy piggledy construction overlooking the white shell runway/beach.
We were also looking for St Barr's church where there was a shell picture Pam was keen to see. We found the ancient St Barr's churchyard, where I believe Sir Compton is buried, at the north end of the runway. Where was the church? 
It was here that I received an intriguing HebsWings (our WhatsApp goup) from Ian asking for our whereabouts as he had a moth he'd like us to see. We returned, meeting Ian and his carload south of the airport. We all returned to the airport parking area where Pam emptied our biscuit box so that the moth could be placed in it. 
Waw. I was dumbstruck. So beautiful and so desirable. A male Belted Beauty, a Red Data moth and the one I'd been wishing to see. Fantastic. Well done Ian. He'd found it as he walked a beach area, thinking it might be a Bee. Smaller than I'd anticipated and very attractive.


I'm still awe-struck but, not being amongst  the most demonstrative of people, cannot express my joy. The euphoria one gets from a successful twitch for a rare bird such as Cream-coloured Courser in the UK.
We then found the St Barr's  Church, we'd passed it early in the morning ! The shell picture is one the outside wall and I found it impossible to take a photo that isn't wonky - as you can see below.



Time to catch the last ferry back to Eriskay, Pat and Mike joining us for the last leg. 
We saw one male Hen Harrier cross the road in front of us 


and three separate Short-eared Owls on the journey through South uist and Benbeula. 


The third owl was from Mike and Pat's cottage. We had a look round their excellent cottage before getting home sometime after 8, emptying the moth trap, putting it out again and having a late supper.
What an enjoyable day, enhanced by the companionship of good friends.
All the Bs
Barra and 
Belted Beauty

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