Eulogy to an Emperor

Tuesday May 14

We went to Berneray the pretty way. Via Balranald. Well it's on the way and very tempting. Our first stop was at the cattle pens, in order to view the lochans to the south and the nearby Iris beds. We heard a Corncrake, couldn't see it and were about to move off when I became aware of a loud thrumming noise. Pam was puzzling too. It was a Dunlin doing its unique display when it rises verically, stays in place by hovering - its wings a blur - uttering the vibrating one-note gurgle we'd heard. At the end of the display, he produced a descending chord as he fluttered away. Brilliant. I'd winessed this only once before, on our first visit to North Uist four years ago.

We heard Corncrake again as we turned at the Visitors Centre, still no sighting. A large RSPB led group walked away, we drove off onto the coastal route north to Berneray via Sollas.

I find this road very attractive scenically. Hugging the rocky shoreline with its numerous bays, indentations and white sand.beaches. With bright sunshine and temperatures rising to 19C, the sea was a Caribbean blue. The best view is just before the causeway to Berneray where a high vantage point gives extensive views across to islets.

The ferry to Lewis leaves from the Berneray  side of the causway. The road then follows the west coast of the island where most of the ribbon development habitation is and the rocks are a favourite with basking seals.

Belly up

Rollover

It then climbs steadily, but not steeply, to the extensive area of daisy studded machair looking across to the northernmost islands of the Outer Hebrides, Lewis and Harris. This a favourite parking place for the dratted ever increasing motorhomes - and us. Not too many of them to-day. We stayed there for some time enjoying the view and checking out the bird life. Gannets kept appearing from the northern end of the bay, Sand Martins flew into the cliff below, a few Arctic Terns plunge dived and nothing responded to our Emperor moth lure.

I was doing yesterday's DT code word.......Pam suddenly said 'Can you see those two people on the beach?'. I couldn't. Then I did. It was Mike and Pat. They walked the full extent of the bay before returning to look at the whale vertebra lined up in front of what used to be the shabby Youth Hostel and cafe, now a rather splendid house.

Extreme Cropping

When they appeared below., Pam sought their attention and they climbed the cliffs to join us. 

Their car was parked a short way from ours and we'd been behind them when they turned off  !  Not at all unusual for me not to have noticed them but, almost a first for Pam. After a chat, we separated, I continued to do puzzles and Pam watched the sea.

After leaving Berneray, we parked on a rise overlooking an ancient dwelling on an island in a loch. A pile of stones with historic significance

Image: Dun an Sticir
Broch in North Uist. The loch around Dun an Sticer is tidal to a certain extent, at low tide you shold be able to get across the causeways without getting your feet wet, at high tide you might get there with wellies on but in places the water may go over the top

 My photograph was rubbish. 

Suddenly an Emperor moth tried to get into the car via Pam's window. She ushered it away and then put the lure outside on the ground. Over the next ten minutes there was a Youtube video-worthy event. Us trying to photograph 6+ male moths frantically fluttering around the lure area, never still. 

Emperor Moth and rubber bung pheromone impregnated lure

Frantic

Pam caught one of the males in our net, which I  had to hold closed whilst she found a container. I then transferred it to a lunch box whilst we continued to take blurred movement photos. At last, one male stopped, but had closed upper wings, hiding the fabulous orange underwings. The upperwings are impressive.

Waw what an experience. A driver returned and Pam  showed her  the moth, she was impressed.

We'd sent a WhatsApp message but there was no sign of M and P so we dragged ourselves away. As far as a small roadside plantation, north of Sollas, with a 100 year memorial garden in the parking area. We'd seen a Cuckoo here last year. As soon as we stopped, more Emperor moths tried to enter the car and to follow Pam around. She had one on her leg and one on her arm. 

Busy being amused, I didn't notice the one that took up residence on my thigh - inside the car.

Then, a Cuckoo began to call. It was at the back of the plantation, celebrating its nest invading success from the top of a telegraph pole. My first real sighting.

Leaving several sex misled males behind us, one hitched a lift on the bonnet, we drove home via Committee road. 
The Bog Beans are now in flower.

A stop at Bayhead to pick up to-day's newspaper and then, the sighting of Ian and Sue at the side of the road. They'd heard a Sedge Warbler in next door's garden. A good island tick. We also heard it before being invited in for a cuppa.

After the usual pleasant and animated exchange of news, we tried to leave. I should never have sat on that low sofa. No hoists nor cranes available, but a lot of willing helpers to raise this beached (sofa'd ?) whale. It took time ..........

A very busy evening sorting umpteen moth photographs.