Friday, 3 May 2019

Exchanging one Highlands For Another

Friday May 3

Up at 6.40, breakfasted, packed the car and away at 8.37. Pretty slick. It actually dropped small hail on us as we packed and the NNE wind was knife-edge sharp. 
Pam was seduced by a large M and S Food Store as we approached Fort William, that's to-day and to-morrow's meals sorted. Another traditional stop at Morrison's stocked up the remaining essentials. 
A  queue for the Corran Ferry meant that we had to watch one come in, load, cross the channel, discharge its cargo, fill up and return before it was our turn. Not a long wait, it's a very short crossing.
Everyone turns left off the ferry - apart from us.  We go right to view the Black Guillemots roosting on their less than scenic rusty pile at the end of the small jetty.



We were tempted to visit the Inn for a hot drink but ploughed on towards Strontian.
The Ardnamurchan Peninsula  Is the most westerly and remote part of mainland Britain.  The name generally applies to the entire triangle of land west of Loch Linnhe, north of the Sound of Mull, and south of the A830, taking in Moidart, Sunart, Ardgour and Morvern as well as Ardnamurchan which geographically is just the western tip. 



Strontian is the tiny village at the centre of this triangle which gave its name to the element strontium. In 1790 geologists discovered a new mineral in the lead mines here, which they called "strontianite", and within it identified strontium from its distinctive crimson-red flame. It became commercially important in the 19th C in the extraction of sugar from beet, and in the 20th C for the coating of TV cathode-ray tubes; nowadays a major use is for red firework flares.

To birders, its claim to fame is the several years long stay of an American Black Duck, which has taken up residence on the Strontian river, breeding with local Mallards.
Despite the odd shower, the weather improved as we drove west, enough to admire the grandeur of the mountain ranges each side of Loch Linnhe, we were travelling alongside the loch. Far too much wind for bird activity but Pam found three Goosanders on Loch Sunart, always a joy. 
We made our way to Strontian and our exploration of the river, hoping to find the Black Duck. Immediately after crossing the main bridge, a narrow road goes off to the right. No ducks here. About half a mile later, immediately after a church which  needs sunglasses  to look at the  dazzling vermilion door, a hidden lane (driveable) labelled ' Burial Ground, left over bridge'. THE bridge which is the favourite place to view the bird. We parked easily and safely in a gateway near the bridge and stood on top looking up river.


Several Mallards flew through, the sun shone, tempering the cold. Orange-tip and Green-veined White Butterflies fluttered madly through the Hawthorn blossom. We were happy in the moment but, a view of the bird would have been the icing. Not a tick for us, we saw the Great Pool on Tresco resident for several years before it was shot (rumour).
It's a very attractive hump-backed bridge with a fern species growing out of the joins between the stones.

We discovered that this was the road to Heatherbank B and B for the night but decided to return to the first bridge and a nearby car park from which the river mouth and shore can be scanned. After a few minutes, the other car present disgorged four birders. One of them alerted us to an eagle flying high over the ridge beyond the loch. Our first White-tailed Eagle of the trip -  and year. 
They hadn't seen the Black Duck either.
Driving back over the bridge, I noticed a small lane immediately off to the left, labelled something Paddock. Surmising that this would get us down to the river mouth, we followed the lane past some houses until reaching the last gated one where a grassy track turned left down to a small slipway. From here we had a splendid view of the river mouth and the loch shore. Pam found two Greenshank, several Oystercatchers, one Red-breasted Merganser, a Hooded Crow, three Swallows and several Mallard.
Time to give up for the night and find Heatherbank. Even with the precise instructions it's not easy, high up on moorland above the town. And we've been before !
Pulling up at the front door in order to disgorge me and the luggage, we were met and greeted by Chris, who carried in our bags. We have Room 1 which is lovely, much nicer than last year's. The view from the large picture windows in our bedroom - at the front of the house - is stunning. I keep looking out at it as I type, the setting sun adding depth and colour to the 3D scene.
We'll have some time for another duck search in the morning before driving to Lochaline and the ferry to Fishnish on Mull.


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