All the Bs

Thursday May 16

The SatNav had estimated one hour's drive to Eriskay harbour. I'd suspected that it hadn't taken into account single track roads during early morning commuting time. It took an hour and a half. We'd left plenty of time, no problem. The others,driven by Ian were in good time too. 

The crossing to Barra took about forty minutes. Steep stairs meant that I stayed in the car doing yesterday's word games. I didn't seem to have missed much - or the sightings were underplayed.  
Someone on board had recommended that Sue drive the island's one and only circular route road in a clockwise direction. so we did.



The Eriskay ferry docks in the north-east corner. At the first signposted junction, both directions say Castlebay, the main settlement. Having visited I can't even call it a village let alone a town. 
Hearing a Corncrake, we stopped, immediately seeing one fly from nearby, across the road and into a field. Another male called from a different direction. The road hugged the coast with its tallish cliffs, rocky inlets and birdless sea.
The next stop was in a roadside parking area from which Castlebay's Kisimul Castle could be seen below. 
After the obligatory photo, the plan was to meet and have a coffee in Castlebay.

We drove back to check a bird. We passed the others who were now in the viewing area and immediately saw a White-tailed Eagle drifting away over a distant ridge. We had trouble all day being unable to stop to look at birds. Either  there wasn't a convenient passing place or oncoming cars flashed us to proceed. Very frustrating.
 We drove the harbour area in Castlebay - to fill up with petrol - without noticing a single cafe. Back on the circular road, we saw an Information Centre which had a cup and saucer as part of its sign. Funny place ........ . It sold souvenirs, postcards, local food and books. Pam was directed to a small two table area up three steps where she made our coffee and a worker produced milk in a jug from the frig. and sugar from a top shelf. It was good coffee and excellent flapjack. The Griffins and Harcups had gone to find a loo but we met again before continuing.
We soon reached the 1991 completed causeway to the island of Vatersay. A small rocky mound of an island with some lovely sandy beaches and an excellent Community Centre with cafe and loos. 

Our companions had lunched at a picnic table overlooking a bay where Eiders, Red-breasted Merganser, fishing Shags and a lone Great Northern Diver could be seen.
Time was flying by. We returned to Barra and continued a very enjoyable scenic route north along the rocky west coast. We later heard that the others had seen an Iceland Gull in one of the bays. Good sighting.
Coming across a rubbish lorry on these roads is not good news. This one's co-worker was at the side of the road mending someone's bike. Did they hit it? Or was he just a good samaritan? The bike was upturned twice, pedals turned by hand, chain checked, brakes and their cables checked. Meanwhile.......... we watched. The four cars waiting beyond must have wondered what was going on.
At last, the older cyclist re-mounted, mouthed his gratitude for our patience and the lorry drove on.
We'd driven past patches of well wooded areas to-day, seeing more small birds than on the Uists. This included, House Martins, Black-caps, Wrens and Robins. We saw three Cuckoos in flight, heard more and found Corncrakes calling at regular intervals.
Patches of Primroses. Birds Foot Trefoil and cultivated clumps of Kniphophia lit up the moorlands browns and greys.

I wanted to see Compton Mackenzie's house - author of Whisky Galore, amongst other books -  near the beach aircraft runway at Ardmore. Known as Mr Islands he lived on Barra from 1928 until the late forties.
The house looks uncared for now, a large, sprawling, white painted, single storey higgledy piggledy construction overlooking the white shell runway/beach.
We were also looking for St Barr's church where there was a shell picture Pam was keen to see. We found the ancient St Barr's churchyard, where I believe Sir Compton is buried, at the north end of the runway. Where was the church? 
It was here that I received an intriguing HebsWings (our WhatsApp goup) from Ian asking for our whereabouts as he had a moth he'd like us to see. We returned, meeting Ian and his carload south of the airport. We all returned to the airport parking area where Pam emptied our biscuit box so that the moth could be placed in it. 
Waw. I was dumbstruck. So beautiful and so desirable. A male Belted Beauty, a Red Data moth and the one I'd been wishing to see. Fantastic. Well done Ian. He'd found it as he walked a beach area, thinking it might be a Bee. Smaller than I'd anticipated and very attractive.

I'm still awe-struck but, not being amongst  the most demonstrative of people, cannot express my joy. The euphoria one gets from a successful twitch for a rare bird such as Cream-coloured Courser in the UK.
We then found the St Barr's  Church, we'd passed it early in the morning ! The shell picture is one the outside wall and I found it impossible to take a photo that isn't wonky - as you can see below.

Time to catch the last ferry back to Eriskay, Pat and Mike joining us for the last leg. 
We saw one male Hen Harrier cross the road in front of us 

and three separate Short-eared Owls on the journey through South uist and Benbeula. 

The third owl was from Mike and Pat's cottage. We had a look round their excellent cottage before getting home sometime after 8, emptying the moth trap, putting it out again and having a late supper.
What an enjoyable day, enhanced by the companionship of good friends.
All the Bs
Barra and 
Belted Beauty

A Day of Rest, Corncrakes and Escorts

Wednesday May 15

Newly home from a very pleasant meal at the Westford Inn with the Griffins and Harcups. Off to Barra in the morning so an earlier start than to-day's - which was late. After a short night (me) and a leisurely morning, it was mid-day before we drove to Balranald. The usual stopping places where we were teased by the ventriloquial rasping call of several Corncrakes and the addition of a handsome black ruffed Ruff.  He was standing on one leg with his back to us, my photos are very disappointing.

I hope he's there to-morrow and better placed.

On to half an hour at the reserve centre.............listening to Corncrakes. 

Fortified by a cheese roll from the campsite van, eaten in a lay-by overlooking a rocky and pebble beached bay and hearing two more............Corncrakes, we scanned the shore for waders. Only a few, well camouflaged, Sanderling, Dunlin and Ringed Plover. 

 The incoming tide produced braeking waves over entrance rocky reefs, a small yacht dwarfed in the background.

An oblivious man walked along the shoreline scattering everything before him. He didn't have any binoculars and appeared to be attempting to get nearer so that he could see the birds !

Loch Sanderay was worth a visit. We added Wigeon for the island and several other ducks for to-day's list padders.

Bayhead for the DT is well on the way to Committee Road...........it would be rude not to visit. A slow ascent with stops for Pam to photograph Bog Bean. No birds in sight but Emperor Moths zoomed in.

 A longer stop on the descent to Sollas, where a familiar car pulled up.  Ian and Sue, who had enjoyed time on Berneray. Just in time to see three Emperor Moths fluttering around the car, trying to get in. They'd escorted us down from the previous stop. We thought we'd given them the sllp. That three year old lure must be pretty powerful stuff - at home in the freezer to-day.

Yes. A Short-eared Owl came into view, hunting along the fence line of the forestry. Far too distant for good photography, but at least it was light.

 Home to the cottage where...........a Corncrake was calling from the field next door.

 

Eulogy to an Emperor

Tuesday May 14

We went to Berneray the pretty way. Via Balranald. Well it's on the way and very tempting. Our first stop was at the cattle pens, in order to view the lochans to the south and the nearby Iris beds. We heard a Corncrake, couldn't see it and were about to move off when I became aware of a loud thrumming noise. Pam was puzzling too. It was a Dunlin doing its unique display when it rises verically, stays in place by hovering - its wings a blur - uttering the vibrating one-note gurgle we'd heard. At the end of the display, he produced a descending chord as he fluttered away. Brilliant. I'd winessed this only once before, on our first visit to North Uist four years ago.

We heard Corncrake again as we turned at the Visitors Centre, still no sighting. A large RSPB led group walked away, we drove off onto the coastal route north to Berneray via Sollas.

I find this road very attractive scenically. Hugging the rocky shoreline with its numerous bays, indentations and white sand.beaches. With bright sunshine and temperatures rising to 19C, the sea was a Caribbean blue. The best view is just before the causeway to Berneray where a high vantage point gives extensive views across to islets.

The ferry to Lewis leaves from the Berneray  side of the causway. The road then follows the west coast of the island where most of the ribbon development habitation is and the rocks are a favourite with basking seals.

Belly up

Rollover

It then climbs steadily, but not steeply, to the extensive area of daisy studded machair looking across to the northernmost islands of the Outer Hebrides, Lewis and Harris. This a favourite parking place for the dratted ever increasing motorhomes - and us. Not too many of them to-day. We stayed there for some time enjoying the view and checking out the bird life. Gannets kept appearing from the northern end of the bay, Sand Martins flew into the cliff below, a few Arctic Terns plunge dived and nothing responded to our Emperor moth lure.

I was doing yesterday's DT code word.......Pam suddenly said 'Can you see those two people on the beach?'. I couldn't. Then I did. It was Mike and Pat. They walked the full extent of the bay before returning to look at the whale vertebra lined up in front of what used to be the shabby Youth Hostel and cafe, now a rather splendid house.

Extreme Cropping

When they appeared below., Pam sought their attention and they climbed the cliffs to join us. 

Their car was parked a short way from ours and we'd been behind them when they turned off  !  Not at all unusual for me not to have noticed them but, almost a first for Pam. After a chat, we separated, I continued to do puzzles and Pam watched the sea.

After leaving Berneray, we parked on a rise overlooking an ancient dwelling on an island in a loch. A pile of stones with historic significance

Image: Dun an Sticir
Broch in North Uist. The loch around Dun an Sticer is tidal to a certain extent, at low tide you shold be able to get across the causeways without getting your feet wet, at high tide you might get there with wellies on but in places the water may go over the top

 My photograph was rubbish. 

Suddenly an Emperor moth tried to get into the car via Pam's window. She ushered it away and then put the lure outside on the ground. Over the next ten minutes there was a Youtube video-worthy event. Us trying to photograph 6+ male moths frantically fluttering around the lure area, never still. 

Emperor Moth and rubber bung pheromone impregnated lure

Frantic

Pam caught one of the males in our net, which I  had to hold closed whilst she found a container. I then transferred it to a lunch box whilst we continued to take blurred movement photos. At last, one male stopped, but had closed upper wings, hiding the fabulous orange underwings. The upperwings are impressive.

Waw what an experience. A driver returned and Pam  showed her  the moth, she was impressed.

We'd sent a WhatsApp message but there was no sign of M and P so we dragged ourselves away. As far as a small roadside plantation, north of Sollas, with a 100 year memorial garden in the parking area. We'd seen a Cuckoo here last year. As soon as we stopped, more Emperor moths tried to enter the car and to follow Pam around. She had one on her leg and one on her arm. 

Busy being amused, I didn't notice the one that took up residence on my thigh - inside the car.

Then, a Cuckoo began to call. It was at the back of the plantation, celebrating its nest invading success from the top of a telegraph pole. My first real sighting.

Leaving several sex misled males behind us, one hitched a lift on the bonnet, we drove home via Committee road. 
The Bog Beans are now in flower.

A stop at Bayhead to pick up to-day's newspaper and then, the sighting of Ian and Sue at the side of the road. They'd heard a Sedge Warbler in next door's garden. A good island tick. We also heard it before being invited in for a cuppa.

After the usual pleasant and animated exchange of news, we tried to leave. I should never have sat on that low sofa. No hoists nor cranes available, but a lot of willing helpers to raise this beached (sofa'd ?) whale. It took time ..........

A very busy evening sorting umpteen moth photographs.

Hebridean Magic

Monday May 13

Overnight strong wind had shut the 'drive' gate. As Pam carried a stone to hold it open, she noticed a moth on a daisy. With considerable excitement, she entered the kitchen, cupped hands held out before her and said ''You'll never guess what this is''. One look and I knew. It was a female Emperor Moth. She was very worn but still beautiful. 

 We've only had fleeting views previously, usually as the male swoops in to a lure. I must try the lure here. 

We also had a second Puss Moth and a Knotgrass.

After a short visit to Ard an Runair to check the sea - only a Great Northern Diver - no Skua passage, we saw a Corncrake fly into an iris bed and disappear. Due south through two islands via causeways which do not show on the SatNav , we appear to be driving on water, we turned off for Grimnis. No Phalaropes for us but the Harcups and the Griffins saw one later. Stinky Bay is almost devoid of seaweed so did not live up to its name. 

Loch Ainort is a favourite of ours. Its on the east coast of the mountainous and much softer looking South Uist.  Its reached via a narrow road through rocky terrain,  following water lochans and streams until reaching the dead end, in a limited parking area near a small wood. The latter is a real novelty on the islands. Fat, glossy, sea slug Common Seals loaf on flat rocks, 

Red Breasted Mergansers slip away warily

and we need to keep an eye on the sky. We saw our Golden Eagle some way up the approach valley. A path leads through the wood and up the mountain to where Golden Eagles and Ravens nest. We lunched here before leaving for Kallin, another favourite of ours. The other four are out on a boat trip from there this afternoon. On previous visits I'd decided that the landing steps would not be suitable for me.

We took the turning down to the fish factory and cafe first, seeing many gulls scavenging on the massive pile of Scallop shell detritus. They were obviously finding enough scraps of flesh remaining in the shells.

A magnificent clump of Primroses caught the eye and the camera lens.

Back home via a lengthy stop at Bayhead for petrol and a few essentials.

After a phone call from Sue, we decided to dovetail our evening visit to Committee Road so that the others could see to-day's moths. We eventually met both pairs and showed off the moths both to them and to another pair we have met on Mull and, latterly, at Lakenheath.

It was a very satisfying visit in beautiful, still warm, sunshine to-night. We ended up with sightings of at least three Hen Harriers, 2 Short-eared Owls and a pair of displaying Arctic Skuas. 

A group of 16 Red Deer came down the hillside, all making vertical take-off jumps over the fences before standing and staring, the low-setting evening sun back-lighting their ear tufts and profile. Magic.

It's now almost 11 p.m. and I'm making mistakes. Time to add a few less than pleasing photographs and to retire to my book.

 

BVD

Sunday May 12

We have two churches between us and the Lochmaddy junction. Their car parks were fuller than I would have expected them to be on the mainland. The Western Isles are - historically - Roman Catholic .I don't know which church is which. I must check next time we pass.

On the look out for both the Griffin and the Harcup cottages, Pam noticed two Golden Eagles circling into the air, shortly after the Paibles area. Nice surprise.

It was late morning before we set out for Baleshare and the Curlew Sandpiper search. Ian had already seen the birds and gave us some helpful advice as to their whereabouts. We spent some time searching the wrong field which was dotted with scurrying, feeding, squabbling, Dunlin and Ringed Plovers. One Black-tailed Godwit was a surprise. 

Rounding a corner, we came across two more cars whose occupants were binning another field. 

One of them was BB. the other a young man who said that he recognised the car from last year !! Bingo, the right field.  After much scanning of very active 300+ small waders. I located both Curlew Sandpipers, who were either fast asleep or, preening with their backs to us. A size larger than the Dunlin, paler below, their white rump obvious when wings were preened. Still in non breeding plumage. Non breeders I guess.

Two handsome Golden Plover posed warily in their appropriate habitat.

Committee Road beckoned. Another Golden Eagle. Could be one of the pair we saw earlier. A Whatsapp message from Ian that two Corncrakes were showing well near the Balranald Visitor Centre, sent us hurrying off. No sign of the birds when we got there but we heard one call.

A fairly quick look at Aird an Runair. A few Dunlin, Ringed Plover and Sanderling on the beach to-day, a dozen Eider and, thanks to our west country burr, crutches wielding man from the boat lift yesterday, Purple Sandpipers on the rocks. Must also find out his name. I'll get Pam on the job or, better still, Sue.

Another stop at the Centre without success then, going home for a drink before sallying forth again for Committee Road.

At 6.30.the light was appalling, more like dusk than a spring evening usually is at that time. We drove Committee slowly, seeing no birds at all until the feeders at the last house at the Sollas end, which had Siskin and Goldfinch. On the return journey we met Sue and Ian and went on slowly searching the moorland all around. As we neared the west end of the road, Pam noted a raptor flying along a distant ridge. A White-tailed Eagle. We turned in order to track it. There. sitting at the side of the road was a Short-eared Owl. Waw. Where did that creep in from. A different expletive.......camera poised, a pick-up hurtled towards us and spooked the bird.  

We spent the next ten minutes, in the gathering gloom, trying to photograph the owl. Stupid really but such fun - until the photos are seen. A second, paler bird joined in with the fun. 

Reluctantly we drove home for a late meal.
Heavily cropped and shopped........

A few Red Deer, fed on the hillside. On what? Very slim pickings.

BVD?

Better Views Desired. A birder's mantra taught us by a young Belgian birder who died too young.

Hey,Hey, The Gang's All Here

Saturday May 11

We woke to enjoy a lovely sunny morning, breakfasted with two Americans from Oregon and a load of chat from our delightful Glaswegian landlady. 

We eventually got away for a west to east, in and out of sea inlets drive, to Uig. Early for the ferry, we signed in and were first in the assisted travel queue. We were eventually joined by Sue and Ian and then, Pat and Mike. Having caught up with B and B news, moth-ing sessions and birds seen, it was time to board the ferry. Pam and I always sit in the outside area below the top deck. It's a little more sheltered - a fact acknowledged by the other four who had braved the top tier. Fewer Auks than last year, mostly Guillemots, a steady patrol of Gannets, a few Kittiwakes and little else.  Sue thought someone had called a Bonxie upstairs.

The usual slick disembarkation at Lochmaddy ensuring that we were on our way to HoughHarry by 4.15.Pam suggested that we go to Ard an Runair first - passing our cottage en route.  Someone else had been even faster. As we entered the sandy track, a man witth whom we'd shared the lift (he had a stiff right leg and used a crutch) came towards us, wound down his window and gave us instructions on where to find the birds. i.e. Look on the sandy machair for two photographers lying down and follow where their lenses are pointing. We did exactly that, finding three well camouflaged Dotterel making short dashing forays into the machair before pecking for food. They never came near enough but, nevertheless,  we both photographed happily.

The beach was devoid of seaweed, probably explaining the lack of small waders exploring the stranded mounds for insects and other invertebra. Just a few Sanderling.

Not a single Corncrake called while we were out, the Irises are still extremely short. Are the birds back on territory yet? A recent entry in our visitors book, made by birders who have been visiting for thirty years, commented on the decline in the number of birds on the islands. Interesting.

We did find, Tufted Duck, Gadwall, Little Grebe, Shoveller and Whooper Swan on roadside lochs. We have a  Whooper on the lochan opposite our cottage. Ian and Sue passed us, going to Balranald for the birds themselves. Our Whatsapp group is working as a message confirmed that they'd seen the Dotterel and another from Mike  who had also seen the birds.

Barry Barnacal  pulled in opposite us and had time to pass on the info that there were Curlew Sandpipers at Baleshare before another vehicle enforced moving.

Whimbrel whinnied their way away from our lochan and towards the sea as we drove in. Lovely.

Where Did The Day Go

Friday May 10

Packing the car, driving to the ferry, driving Ardnamurchan, another ferry queue, shopping in Fort William and then a slow drive the length of Skye. That's where the day went. 

Our B and B, Hazel Bank, is in the middle of nowhere. I asked for Portree when I booked it but we are nearer Dunvegan. Must look at the map. I think it's Glendale !!

 

We've had all sorts of weather thrown at us too. One minute we had blue sky and bright sun, the next black clouds and a rain/hail mixture. All day. The two often just a few minutes apart. Ben Nevis and its mountain range  were white topped from overnight snow - when we could see them. Dramatic.

Uig and the ferry to North Uist in the morning. There are four Dotterel at Ard an Runair, fingers crossed that they'll stay. Previous birds on the islands have been inaccessible to me as they required a tramp.